第77章 三宅一生一生钟情
三宅一生：乔布斯钟情的高领衫
Why Steve Jobs Chose This Designers Turtlenecks
乔布斯为什么会选择这位设计师的高领衫
By Vanessa Friedman
Little wonder， really， that Issey Miyake was Steve Jobss favorite designer.
三宅一生是乔布斯最喜欢的设计师，这一点真的不足为奇。
The man behind Mr. Jobss personal uniform of black mock turtlenecks， who died on Aug. 5 at age 84， was a pioneer in all sorts of ways — the first foreign designer to show at Paris Fashion Week， among the first designers to collaborate with artists and a proponent of “fort dressing“ long before the term ever existed.
乔布斯那件标志性的黑色高领衫，就出自三宅一生之手。这位设计师于8月5日去世，享年84岁；生前，他在各方面都堪称先锋：他是第一位在巴黎时装周上展示个人设计的外国设计师，是开创时尚与艺术跨界合作的鼻祖之一，并且，早在“舒适着装”一词出现之前，他就大力倡导服装的舒适性。
The black turtleneck was not by any means Mr. Miyakes most interesting garment. But it embodies his founding principles and serves as the door through which anyone not particularly interested in fashion could walk to discover the Miyake universe. Mr. Jobs did just that.
这件黑色高领衫绝对算不上是三宅一生最有趣味性的设计。但是，它却体现了这位设计师的初心；而且，它就像一扇门一样，即使是对时尚不太感兴趣的人也可以走进这扇门，去探寻三宅一生的创作世界。乔布斯就是这样做的。
Even more than his Levis 501s and New Balance shoes， the turtleneck became synonymous with Mr. Jobss particular blend of genius and his focus: the way he settled on a uniform to reduce the number of decisions he had to make in the mornings， the better to focus on his work. Also his ability to blend soft-corner elegance and utility in not just his own style but the style of his products.
与李维斯501牛仔裤和新百伦运动鞋相比，还是这件黑色高领衫能够更好地诠释出乔布斯身上所独有的、天赋与专注力的结合：他以固定着装的方式，来减少早上要做决定的次数，这样就能更好地专注在工作上；此外，他还把柔和雅致与实用性能结合起来，这项能力不仅被应用于他个人的时尚风格，更是其产品的设计特色。（译者注：文中提到的“李维斯501牛仔裤”和“新百伦运动鞋”同样也是乔布斯的标志性穿着。）
Mr. Jobs was not the typical muse of fashion cliché. But he has bee the designers ambassador to history: a genuinely populist part of a legacy that helped shape not just the rarefied inner sanctum of design， but the essence of how we think about dress.
虽然乔布斯并不是一个泛滥于时尚界的典型“缪斯”，但他确实已成为三宅一生设计生涯的形象代言人。他代表着三宅一生时尚遗产中真正平民化的那一部分，也正是这部分理念，让这位设计师不仅诠释了时尚设计圣殿内部的高深精妙，也奠定了有关服饰思考的本质。
【拓展】
1.三宅一生与山本耀司、川久保玲并称为“日本时界三巨头”。
2.三宅的设计超越了美学的范畴——不仅有型，富有灵感，更兼具舒适且彰显个人气质。
——安藤忠雄
3.决策疲劳（decision fatigue）：持续地做决定让人的生理和心理产生的不适感。
4.三宅一生在1986年接受《时代》杂志采访时说：“日语中有三个词，yofuku是西方服装；wafuku是日本服装；而fuku则是服装。fuku也可以表示好运，幸福。当人们问我是做什么的，我不提yofuku或wafuku，我说我创造幸福。”
生词好句
1.turtleneck
英[?t??t?lnek]美[?t??rt?lnek]
n.（美式英语）高领（衫）
拓展:
polo neck （英式英语）高领（衫）
mock turtleneck 半高领（衫）
crew neck 圆领（衫）
V-neck 鸡心领（衫）
2.(It’s) little wonder that…
......不足为奇，并不奇怪
拓展:
It’s little wonder that...= It’s no/small wonder that...
在口头或非正式文体中，开头的it’s以及从句的引导词that经常省略。
No wonder the children are excited—this is the first time they’ve been abroad.
难怪这些孩子这么兴奋，这是他们头一回出国。
3.personal uniform
标志性的穿搭造型或风格（a specific set of clothes or a particular style that you consistently wear）
拓展:
My personal uniform consists of a tank top paired with high-waisted shorts.
我的常规穿搭就是无袖上衣配高腰短裤。
4.pioneer
英[?pa???n??]美[?pa???n?r]
n.先驱，先锋，领军人物
拓展:
pioneering adj.开创性的，探索性的
pioneering techniques 开创性的技术
5.collaborate with somebody
与某人合作
拓展:
collaborate with somebody on something = collaborate with somebody in doing something
与某人在......方面合作
6.proponent of something
......的提倡者，倡导者（advocate of something）
拓展:
He is a leading proponent of gun control.
他是控枪的主要支持者。
